Multi pitch climbing with 3 reddit belay. This is going to be more relevant to multi p.
Multi pitch climbing with 3 reddit belay " I think with many "high friction" devices, they get sticky when you are lead belaying, it's pretty annoying. The atc is the simplest and easiest to use, it doesn't "stick. Jul 21, 2012 · It did involve one of our party soloing the North Chimney and the first pitch of the Casual and setting up the ATC Guide and bring up the second and third at the same time. If the pitch traverses he can put two draws on a piece to protect both followers. As mentioned earlier, get proper training and become proficient in this climbing style before taking it to a serious place like the alpine. Simply girth Skip to main content. 4. It's also really nice if the anchor is far back on a ledge (less likely for sport) and you want to extend the belay to watch your partner. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. com After the last experience of getting tangles bad enough to warrant untying, flaking both ropes separately after each pitch would be worth it, but would absolutely kill efficiency adding 3-5 minutes at each belay. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. The second climber once he got to the anchors would secure the trailing rope and just let it hang free. ) and start practicing top belay on single pitch sport routes (you lead, build anchor, bring up follower, and then both rap off). At the top of the pitch he builds an anchor with slings and cord with a good spot for a guide device to belay both climbers at once. Climber 3 remove his top end of rope B to climber 2, who will then be ready to lead. I've never done a 4 party multi, but I've done a 3 party 14 pitch climb. Aug 28, 2021 · My belay device of choice for multi-pitch climbing is the ATC Guide, for its lightness, simplicity, and versatility. I have the reverso3 and I hate it. An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. This is going to be more relevant to multi p Mar 31, 2010 · 2. There are three ways to belay from above: Off the harness; Through a redirect; Off the anchor itself; Belaying off the anchor is almost always the best option. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. It's also lighter. Good thing I got it for free. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. However part of me says to get the neox now because learning to single pitch lead climb is what I'm going to be doing for the next 6 months to a year, so what good is a device I could multi pitch with better. Are there situations when other options can be useful? A look at how we can be efficient and save some time when multi pitch rock climbing, focusing on the belay area. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. Climber 3 reaches belay. Belaying off the harness or building anchors with the climbing rope is a great way to reduce forces on your anchor, but if your anchor is questionable you should think about placing better pieces rather than making bad pieces work better 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. I think a set up that sounds good is. If the belayer can extend from the anchor do that instead and belay normally. Climber 1 give his bottom end of rope B to climber 3. The third climb would climb up with an ascender on his harness. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. Otherwise I would pick up a belay device with an autolocking guide mode (atc guide, reverso, pivot, megajul, etc. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. (I have a guide mode atc, so I'm not totally blocked from learning multi pitch either way) I would recommend the atc unless you plain to multi-pitch then you might want the guide. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. I know the correct answer would be to find a 4th person to have two teams of two, but I quite like climbing in 3's for the social aspect. I usually go with a pre-tied quad on 7mm cord for belay stations with two bomber bolts. Climber 1 leads on double ropes. Climber 2 with rope A seconds the pitch, reaches the belay and starts sorting out gear while climber 3 follows 10 meters later on rope B. But I would have to test if that seems sketchy. If not then belay with a munter until the leader has enough pieces in to provide friction then pop my belay device on below the munter and remove the munter. r/RockClimbing A chip A close button Clip, Clip, Clove, Clove, Off belay, Figure 8 in the middle for the belay. The result is a comprehensive comparison-t. See full list on climbing. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) Threading a Bolted Belay: At a bolted belay with the right hardware, such as rings or large quicklinks, you can get away without clipping any carabiners to the protection points, obviating the risk of unclipping and saving carabiners. When you're up: That's me, on belay, unclove, unclove, climb. 3. 5. The first 2 guys are the best climbers and would swing leads to keep the group moving. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. Jan 13, 2022 · The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. Let's call the first leader climber 1, the second up climber 2 and the last 3. dnzdlphbbsheppsevwjktpxdddbdlyldzyevfxbfseknhf